Friday, 19 February 2016


We are in boca raton fl for Air Conditioning and Electrical things of your home or business needs repairs. Don’t hesitate to click on  the links at the bottom of this page. They will take you to a contractor that can help you out today.Say goodbye to your problems.Compressor 1. The fan starts, but the compressor does not.1. Immediately disengage the contactor. Check the wire connections again. All wire  connections need to be good before going any further. Remove the wires from the  start capacitor (if you have one) and test the microfarad output. Your meter  should be set on Microfarad (200F). Read the label on the side of the capacitor. The reading should be within + or – 10%. If the start capacitor is  bad it can be replaced by a universal hard start capacitor (SPP6, SPP8 or Kick  Start).Wire it the same as the start capacitor. If the capacitor is good go to  2. If the capacitor is bad replace and go to 2. (Not all compressors have start  capacitors).
2. Check the run capacitor. Remove the wires from the run capacitor and test the  microfarad output. Your meter should be set on Microfarad (200F). Read the label on
 the side of the  capacitor. The reading should be within + or – 10%. The replacement capacitor should be the same size. The start capacitor and the run capacitor are good and  compressor still won’t start go to 3. If you have replaced either one of these  capacitors go to 4.3. Put  your hand on the compressor. If it is hot to the touch it is probably off on  thermal overload. Go to the section on thermal  overload. If it is cool to the touch proceed. Test the compressor  terminals.
 Remove the wiring (start, run, common) from the compressor making  sure not to get them mixed up. Test Ohms from each terminal to ground. If you  get any reading other than 0 the compressor is shorted or Gone to Ground. See  the section on Gone to Ground. For  further testing of the ohm resistance of the terminals see the section on Compressor Ohms. 4. Testing the compressor for open windings. All wires to the  compressor must be removed for this test. With your meter on Ohm’s, set
 one  test lead on one of the terminals and the other one on another one of the  terminals you should get continuity. Test each terminal this way. You should  get continuity between each of the terminals. If you do not, you have an open  winding. Do not condemn the compressor yet. Put your hand on the compressor. If  it is hot to the touch it probably can be repaired so see Thermal Overload. If  it is cool to the touch it cannot be repaired so see Compressor Replacement.Hint: 
Opening  windings are rare. Usually when a compressor shorts out the compressor shorts  out to the case and creates a direct short to ground. Never make a 
determination of open windings if the case of the compressor is warm to the  touch. Cool it down with a hose for 10-15 minutes. Test all the capacitors and the incoming power. Then restart with your amperage meter set on the common  wire to the compressor.The Compressor Starts, but the fan does not-or runs slow.Continued from above.1. Turn the power off immediately. The lack of fan cooling will cause the Freon  pressures to skyrocket and this could damage the compressor.
 2. Check out all electrical connections to the fan motor again. They must be tight  and clean.3. Remove the wires from the capacitor (if any) servicing the fan motor.
 This  could be in the combination compressor capacitor or could be a separate  capacitor. Check out the label rating for the capacitor. It should be between 5  and 15 microfarad (F). Set your meter on Microfarad  (200F) and test the capacitor. It should be within + or –  10% of the nameplate rating. If it is not, replace it. Once replaced, test the  amperage draw of the motor. It must be the nameplate rating + or – 10%. If it  is not, replace it. Read the motor label to verify the correct
 size capacitor. 4. If the fan motor has power going to it (220v not 120v-ground) and the capacitor  is good check the amperage draw of the motor. Is it  drawing the

 amount of amperage for Locked Rotor. Is it the motor hot to the  touch? Maybe, it is off on Thermal Overload. See the section on replacing the fan motor before
 replacing.  Has the motor previously been replaced? Does it’s  ampacity match the ampacity rating on the condensing unit label? Is the fan  blade new? If so, is
 it the right size and pitch?COMPRESSOR OHMS. Disconnect all wires to the compressor before  you try to ohm it out.On any compressor you have three  terminals –
common, run, and start.  If  any of these three terminals registers any ohms to ground the compressor is bad  and is said to have gone to “ground”. The ohm’s
registering from terminal to  terminal will vary from compressor to compressor, size to size, so I won’t get  into that.  If you take an ohm reading  from common
 start                           =                   6 ohmsAnd  (ohms) common to run                         =                   4 ohmThen,  (ohms) run to start
 will                        =                   10  ohmsIf  this isn’t true you have a short or a break in one of the windings.  Let’s say you come across a
compressor and  the wires have been removed and there is no wiring diagram to follow.  How do you figure out which terminal is  which?  Label the three terminals
 1, 2  and 3.  Take ohms readings between each,  1-2, 1-3, 2-3, and record those readings.   The highest reading will always be between the run and start  terminals.
  The second highest reading  will be between common and start and the lowest reading will be between common  and run.  So if 1 minus 2 equals 10 ohms,  2 minus 3
equals 6 ohms, and 1 minus 3 equals 4 ohms, then:1 is run                2 is start                 3  is common

to start and take another reading from common to run you can those  two readings together and it will equal the other reading run to start.for further details contact us.

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